Sterling years ago had a kit of USS Missouri wood in a fairly large scale. Unfortunately Estes has purchased the assets of Sterling and Missouri is currently not available. I hate to think what a risk work on EBay. On the single option now would be a model made of plastic and the largest is 1 350th. Tamiya has a kit from good, but if you want you will find enough wood lot be out of luck.
While I have seen some models of painted by hand, it is a skill that I've never been able to develop. Really bang up job is carried out with the Airbrush. To do this, I recommend a Paasche "H" model This is good and lasting airbrushing packaged with three different Councils. It is cheaper than an Iwata, though some Hobby Lobby stores carry both and you can mark usually one for 40% of Hobby Lobby sales.
Acrylic paintings are something that I have not become in and do not know well. The advantage is that you do not have to use special diluents. Some modelers use Windex to thin. My experience is primarily with enamels. I have a friend who uses finger nail thinned with lacquer thinner on his car as he loves the range of colours and grain shine metal / metal ones.
You do not have a compressor, some people prefer to use a CO2 bottle, but that seems a bit expensive. Some tool discount (such as port cargo) inexpensive compressors stock companies. Probably the most import thing for a good finish is good preparation of the surface. In other words a good clean. Smooth surface. As I understand workplan I I developed a tendency towards the surface first and which dries much of sand with paper of very fine particles. Try 3200, 2500, within this range.
I then wash it and would well dried. Thinning of the painting is an art, not a science. This is something that you just to experiment.
Best finish (made Beaver) should be obtained by applying a layer of good color first. After which dried well you can Polish any irregularity with fine particles of sand paper (2000, 3200, something of this order.). If additional layers are required you can apply the slightly thereafter. I waits for coating until finish is free of spots. If you use gloss paint for the color channels to ensure that coats is completely dry between coats. Sometimes, which may take a day or two. A tip to a friend uses its funny car models is to use finger nails as it dries very smooth.
I was able to get quite smooth finishes by polishing the surface before my coat and first implementation of painting in layers of light. I also sometimes use flat paints and a final layer glossy finish usually results in a smooth. It's really not a science paint good finishing. It is an art that every individual develops on their own.
I'm not sure what the architectural scale models are build to, but 1: 200 does not imply inch very well. 1/48Th works out at 1/4 inch is equal to 1 foot and 1/6 foot equals 1/72. The scale must be divisible by 12 (i.e. 1/144th scale would be 144 divided by 12 which gives 1/12 inch is equal to one foot). Always go you with 1/192 (1/16 inch equals one foot), which is a popular scale for ship models. Another solution would be using metric where 1/200 should work correctly.
As materials, you are a good choice. There is always the old standby: balsa wood. Balsa is lightweight and easy to cut. A better choice might be plastic, in which case I would recommend to plastic models scale Evergreen. The company produces a wide variety of forms (plastic, sheet I beams, corrugated, etc.). Produces plastic to plastic in many forms of type construction.
Three possibilities come to mind. One is the old standby balsa wood. Balsa is fairly cheap and easy to work with. Several of the adhesives can be used with balsa: Elmer, wood glue, super glue, and even an adhesive that is used this model in timber construction. Balsa wood can be cut with the Exacta knife or razor blade to the raclette for straight lines. Plastic sheet is the second material.
Super glues or type solvent glues work quite well and plastic is very easy to cut in straight lines, you need only the score with the blade and then snap the on line. The third possibility is sound similar to that used in the insulation foam. The first two are available in any shop hobby and the foam is available in a hardware store. There is always the old standbys paper and cardboard, but they do not easily offer more in the construction and will not have the strength of the other three that I mentioned.
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